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We are aware that there is confusion about the proper setup techniques to follow when dialing in your cam for the first time. I think many of you are actually getting it right, but you run across the situation where your numbers don't match what we report. Stop stressing! A lot of these inconsistencies are due to the variation that occurs from block to block. Here's another question that addresses block inconsistencies and the proper way to set your motor up to compensate for those variances. This tech question contributed by: Greg@sneonline.com Q. I usually set up my 95-3 cam with lash that is recommended on the set-up card. People say I should use the opening numbers on the card and run whatever lash that you end up with. Should I use the lash numbers on the setup card? or use the dial indicator and degree wheel and set up at the opening numbers? example... open on the intake side is 16, I did this using the degree wheel but ended up with .007 lash instead of the .005 the card says to use. HELP!!! which one do I do for best performance? Thanks, Greg A. For the best performance, I like to setup my motor by using the opening values on the intake and the closing values on the exhaust, although I do tend to change from time to time ;o) The alignment of these two areas are most crucial to proper interaction between the valves and directly relates to HP capabilities. You should never run less than .003 lash, because when the valve gets hot it will expand and close lash. If you run more than .006 then you cut down on your Top End performance. In some instances you will not be able to get your openings right between .003 and .006, because your block is advanced or retarded to the point that your cam will not profile. In this case, all you have to do is give us a call... Fortunately, we can quickly create a cam for you that will meet your exact needs by advancing or retarding the lobes to meet the individual specs of your motor. (A five dollar fee is added for this service)
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